Zone 9 – known as key white or pure white – pure white paper or snow in bright sunlight.
Zone 8 – gray/white, near white – distinct highlight detail, like a white wall in sunlight or brilliant surfaces in flat light.
Zone 7 – light gray – pale “white” skin, a concrete walkway in sunlight.
Zone 6 – mid-tone gray – average “white” skin or shaded areas in snow on a bright, sunlit day.
Zone 5 – medium gray or 18% gray – darker “white” skin or lighter “black skin,” light foliage or the dark blue of a clear blue sky.
Zone 4 – medium dark gray – slightly darker “black” skin, dark foliage or shadows in landscapes.
Zone 3 – very dark gray – distinct shadow texture is visible.
Zone 2 – dark gray/black – only subtle textures are visible.
Zone 1 – near black – shadows in faint light or rooms without light.
Zone 0 – key black or pure black – carbon or photo paper black.
If you already have a basic understanding of photography the clever, yet relatively simple Zone System formulated by Ansel Adams and Fred Archer and perfected by other experts of photography will help demystify the great prints made by Adams.
The Zone System focuses on two very important aspects of photography – image exposure and development, which naturally centers on the f-stop (the size or opening of the aperture as expressed by a number indicating the amount of light transmitted through the lens). Each zone represents one f-stop of the aperture, so you will need to increase or decrease accordingly. Say, for instance, the darkest area of your composition fits within zone three, then you will need to decrease the aperture by two f-stops. Or, if the darkest area fits within zone seven, you will need to increase the aperture by two f-stops.